Comet network in the Basque Country

Comet network introduction

The Comet network was created by the Belgian nurse Andree de Jong during the Second World War and it was created to evacuate allied soldiers from Nazi-occupied Europe to Spain and from there to England or the USA. This network grew to nearly 14,000 collaborators who saved a total of 2,373 British and about 2,700 US soldiers.

The Comet line descended from Belgium and the Netherlands to Paris. From Paris crossing the Pyrenees through the Basque Country until it reached San Sebastian or Bilbao. The last stage of the trip was Madrid-Gibraltar in the south of Spain.

Biriatou

Near the French Basque town of Biriatou, a few meters from the border with Spain there is a monument dedicated to 2 fallen soldiers trying to reach the border. The river Bidasoa is the historical border in this part of the Pyrenees and it is a very steep terrain with lush forests and perfect to hide from the Nazis.

During the night of 23-24 December 1943 on the edge of the Bidasoa cliffs a group of 7 people including 4 aviators and 3 members of the resistance were preparing to cross the river Bidasoa. The problem was that the river was very high due to the abundant rainfall. Count Antoine d’Ursel and Lieutenant James F Burch were swept away by the current and drowned. Lieutenant Burch was co-pilot of a Michigan Air Force B-17F that was shot down in Holland on October 10, 1943. From Belgium after crossing France thanks to the Comet network he arrived in the Basque Country. His intention was to reach England through Gibraltar.

The Germans recovered their bodies the next day and deposited them in front of the church in Biriatou as a warning to the villagers. The people of Biriatou covered the entrance to the church with flowers in recognition of the dead. The angry Nazis removed the bodies and made them disappear.

Count dÙrsel and Lieutenant Burch are the only ones who lost their lives escaping through the southern Comet Line. These two wakes are dedicated to their memory.

 

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Fly fishing in the Pyrenees

Fishing in the heart of the Pyrenees in Spain, surrounded by mountains from 3000 to 3400m. The highest peak is Mount Aneto at 3404m. It belongs to La Maladeta massif. It is a unique and very well preserved place. This area of the Pyrenees is not exploited so it retains all its natural beauty. This area is surrounded by natural parks so the quality of the water and fish is guaranteed. In all the rivers and lakes, fishing is cacht and released. For this reason, the trouts are very abundant and very voracious. They attack the fly as if they had never seen one in their whole life.

The villages in the area are very beautiful and picturesque. Also, we must emphasize the local gastronomy. The most traditional are the grilled meats and the fresh products of the local gardens.

fly fishing at the Pyrenees

 

The first day we went fishing in a high mountain valley at an altitude of 2500 meters. One part we climb in an indestructible Russian car and the other part we walk up. Once in the fishing area we went up the rivers and waterfalls fishing. At the end we arrived at the lake from which the river originates and there we also fly fish. Both in the river and in the lake the bites were continuous. My friend’s son counted 63 trout all day long between two rods. It was a real wonder. On the other hand, this type of fishing requires a certain physical capacity since it is like a combination of hiking and fly fishing.

 

pyrenees trout

The second day was more relaxing. We fished a very wide valley with several rivers at an altitude of about 1500 meters. It is a flat area so it does not require much physical activity. The car can be parked right there so it is very comfortable. The river descends through the valley winding through the green meadows. On one side and on the other side there are imposing mountains. These rivers are also very productive and there are continuous bumps. The most appropriate flies in these areas are tricopters. In this area there is a small mountain hotel-restaurant where you can eat and rest to continue fishing in the afternoon. It is the perfect option to not do too much exercise.

 

 

 

 

 

Pyrenees fishing

The third day was about fishing in high mountain lakes where native trout abound. First you have to get to the lakes so the only option is to go hiking. It is not too hard but it requires a minimum of physical fitness. The feeling of arriving at a ravaged lake in the mountains with no people around is indescribable. You feel like an explorer who has discovered a hidden treasure. Best of all, that remote lake is full of trout so all you can do is fish. Fishing in the lake is a little different from the river but I love it. When the fly falls, the trout come closer like sharks until one of them appears by surprise and attacks the fly with violence. They may fight less than the river trout but they are also bigger.

After writing these brief words, I felt like going back there to fish. I hope that next June I will be able to enjoy again those natural places, those rivers, waterfalls, flowers and trout. Beautiful trout that hide in those mountains.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The last “makila” artisan in the Basque Country

The “makila” is the traditional basque stick that besides its practical use, is a cultural symbol of authority and strength. For example, it is used in political appointments in the Basque Country. The head of the Basque state, the lehendakari, is sworn in and given the “makila”.

Hand-made piece

Beñat Alberdi from his workshop in Irun he continues the tradition. His grandfather started the trade in 1948, then his father and now he has decided to continue the family tradition.

The handcrafted production of these pieces is not easy and requires time. The process begins in the depths of the Pyrenean forest. In these forests you can find the much appreciated nispero wood. The most appropriate branches are carved in life so that the plant begins a natural tattooing process on the wood. This process can take about a year and that’s when the branch is cut. The “tatoo” is well visible along the entire length of the pole.

Cut in winter, it is debarked in the oven, dyed with quicklime and straightened with heat. Once prepared, the rod is covered at the bottom by a brass, alpaca or silver ferrule, carefully chiselled by hand with Basque motifs. The upper part is crowned by a horn handle that takes shape in a threaded tube covered with braided leather. For the makila called of honor, the hilt is entirely made of silver or alpaca.

Honour and respect

It is a gift that is made to honor another person and show your respect for them. On the upper part of the handle you can carve some typical phrase of the Basque tradition as they are:

“Hitza Hitz” The word is the word

“Hitzemana zor” what is promised is debt

“Ihes etsaiak” escape enemies

“Nerekin beti zuzen” with me always straight

“Nere bideko laguna” my friend traveler

“Nere laguna eta laguntza” My partner and support

Famous people from history

The custom of the Basque people to give away makilas as a symbol of friendship has very old roots. After the First World War, Marshals Foch and Petain and President Clemenceau received makilas. Through these gifts, the Basques of the North of the Pyrenees showed their gratitude. The makila of Marshal Foch had a map of Verdun and on it printed: Hemendik ezin da pasa (From here you do not pass).

A long list of personalities from political, social and sports life have been given the Basque makila. Here some examples; The Pope Juan Pablo II, Ronald Reagan president of the United States, Juan Carlos king of Spain and more.

Here i share the link to the website of these Basque artisans. The last makila artisans.

 

https://www.alberdimakila.com/

 

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Tours and experiences in Basque Country

Top tours in the Basque

The Basque country is a land of contrasts. To the north, mountainous landscapes facing the sea, typical of the Atlantic climate. On the other side, in the south there is a predominance of wheat fields and vineyards, more typical of the Mediterranean climate. It also has an important historical legacy and therefore offers its visitors many tourist possibilities. In the Northeast, Gipuzkoa or the San Sebastian region and the border with the French Basque country are the most important. The first mountains of the Pyrenees are the natural border between the two countries, France and Spain.  The French Basque side is a very picturesque and charming place. The villages look like something from the pages of a fairy tale.

In this post we want to highlight some of the top tours in the Basque territory.

San Sebastian city & pintxos

San Sebastian is a small city of unparalleled beauty, nestled between mountains and the Bay of Biscay. La Concha Bay is its best known landmark. It is a city founded by fishermen and traders. At the end of the 19th century it became the summer residence of the Spanish royalty and aristocracy, which revolutionized the local economy and turned it into a tourist destination of high standing. Large and luxurious hotels were developed as well as restaurants, cafes, casinos and spas. Today the city is still a tourist attraction worldwide and its gastronomy plays a starring role. In this tour we want to show you the best places of the city and end up enjoying the gastronomy in San Sebastián’s Old City. We will try pinchos in 5 different bars accompanied by 5 top-quality wines from our land. Throughout the experience, our clients have a local guide at their disposal who will advise them which are the best places and the best pinchos. He also does all the work, because sometimes it can be difficult for a foreigner to order in a crowded bar.

Rioja wine tour

La Rioja is a land of wine, it is a land of history, it is the Camino Santiago(Saint James’ Way), it is gastronomy. We could say that it has everything. The landscapes are fantastic, The Cantabrian range to the north, The Demanda range to the south and the  Ebro river crossing the valley from east to west. The medieval villages have a special charm and the quality of their gastronomy is recognized worldwide. 

The vanguard of this gastronomy is the wine. There are many wineries, some of which are more traditional in style and were founded in the 19th century. Others are more modern, from the 21st century, and can be seen well in the architecture of their buildings. But all of them have in common the quality of the wine. The Rioja wines use mainly Tempranillo grapes and must meet very strict quality requirements to market their wines. In addition, wines with the crianza and reserva labels must remain a minimum of 12 months in oak barrels. In this tour we visit and taste the wines of some of the best wineries in Rioja with a variety of different styles. We will also visit some historical points of interest and of course enjoy traditional Rioja food. Don’t miss our Rioja wine tour!

French Basque Country 

The French Basque country is an absolute delight for the senses. It’s postcard perfect no matter where you look at it from. And you certainly have options – from mountainous inland areas to the beaches which line its coast. The villages are very charming. Despite some customers saying they look like they’ve been taken out of Disney movies, they are indeed real and have a lot of history, some of them founded in the 10th century and some traditional Basque houses that are still standing and inhabited today are from the 16th century. 

In the French Basque Country we differentiate two areas for our tours. One would be the coastal area and the other would be the inland area. In the coastal area, the villages of Saint Jean de Luz, Guethary and Biarritz stand out. In the inland area, villages such as Sare, Ascain, Ainoa and Spelleta. On this tour we like to surprise our clients by crossing the border into the mountains and visiting some villages on the Spanish side. This area of the Basque Country is also worth seeing.

Bilbao & the coast

Bilbao is the economic capital of the Basque Country and northern Spain. Historically a great industrial city, today it has been reconverted. The maximum exponent of this reconversion would be the Guggehim Museum. The building’s impressive architecture and exhibitions attract people from all over the world. It’s a true pleasure to walk around and admire its absolute magnificence in all its architectural details. There are also other museums like the Museo Bellas Artes in Bilbao that are worth a visit. This tour continues from Bilbao to the Basque coast. There we stop for lunch, usually in Guetaria,  a fishing village famous for its wine and restaurants. It is also a village with illustrious inhabitants that we encourage you to discover. The food here is excellent and is based on fish and seafood. On this tour we combine the modern and cosmopolitan art of Bilbao with the beauty and tradition of the Basque coast.

Hike & cider house restaurant

This is a top tour since it combines some aspects that I personally like the most such as sport and gastronomy. We usually climb an emblematic mountain in the region of San Sebastian. It is considered the first mountain of the Pyrenees and is right on the border with France. The views from here are impressive. After a light hike we will be able to taste the gastronomy of the zone in a typical place – a Basque cider house. The menu is always the same, good fish, good quality steak, and a dessert of local cheese and walnuts. To drink you have all the cider you want directly from the barrel. It’s one of my favorite places to eat. I always say it’s a must!

Cruise on a sailboat

It’s a good way to get to know the Basque coast on board a sailing boat. We can appreciate the landscape from a different perspective. I remember the first time I saw my land from the sea. I thought it was a wonderful thing, that it had been there all this time and I hadn’t seen it. For me it is a very recommendable experience. Also, sometimes we can see our friends the dolphins fluttering around the boat as if they came to say hello. On the boat we always like to offer our clients a good wine and an aperitif based on local products. Everybody loves this tour and so do I.

 

 

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Basque recipe/ Fresh local fish oven baked

Simple way to cook fresh fish in the Basque Country.

It is possible to cook the fish in a charcoal barbacue or in the oven. Both ways is necessary a strong heat.

Drizzle sun flower oil all over the fish. Do the same with the sea salt and if you want add a little bit of white pepper inside the fish.

This recepie can be used with different fish such as; monkfish, turbot, sea bream, long-finned tuna and pargos.

At the Cantabric sea we have a big variety of fish and is hard to choose one as a favourite. Some of them are seasonal so that is the best time to eat it. The summer is the time for the sardins, anchovies and tunas. The fall and the winter is the time for turbot, seabass, monkfish and seafood in general.

Comet network

Depending on how big is the fish you will calculate the timing. It is about 10 minutes per kg and 200º celsius.  If the fish is in the charcoal fire should be 10 minutes per kilo and per each side. At the end of the process the skin should be toasted.

Once the fish is well cooked you have to remove the bones and the head. Put all the fish loins in a plate.

The seasoning. Put some garlic and cayenne in a pan with sun flower oil. Don´t burn the garlics! When the garlic turns into a yellow colour they are ready.  It is time to pour all over the loins. In the same pan put some white vinegar and when is boilig poor al over the fish. At the end add some fresh parsley.

It is a simple repie to cook fish. The most important is to use fresh fish and strong heat.

You have to try it at home!

 

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Hiking the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains in the Basque Country

Xoldokogaina mountain is located in the border between France and Spain. This location can be considered like the heart of the Basque Country. It is 15 minutes from San Sebastian and 15 minutes from Biarritz. From the summit is possible to see both cities and the Pyrenees mountains. There is a fantastic view over Larrhune mountain wich is one of the icons at the French Basque. If you want to get to the top of this fantastic mountain there is an old train from the XIX centuries that goes to the top. The train station is located in litlle village called Sare wich is worth visiting.

The hike starts at the little village called Biriatou located in the french side of the Basque Country at the top of the hill and above the Bidasoa river.

Biriatou is a very charming village with a long basque tradition. It is a good example of the Labortan arquitecture. The Labortan style is one of the aesthetic characteristics that makes the French Basque country so picturesque and unique. You will also be able to find local cheese makers at the farms. They produce a type of seep chease called “Irati Ossau”. It is a world class chease and you have to taste it.

Close to the “fronton” and the unique church there is also a historical hotel and restaurant called “Pakea” where you can have a very good lunch. This restaurant is recomended by Michelin and it has a very good reputation.

I will post some videos of the hike so you can make an idea.

 

 

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River fishing 2019

Comet network

Fishing in the Leizaran river

This past season has been very successful. Our customers left very satisfied. We’ve had days of many catches. Brown and rainbow trout in a unique natural environment. We have fished in the rivers of the Basque mountains and in the Pyrenees. The fishing modalities have been fly-fishing and spinning.
Not far from San Sebastian we have the Leizaran River. It is a mighty river that flows through a very steep valley. The population of common trout is very abundant. On the other hand, in the lower part of the river there are controlled repopulations of rainbow trout and salmon. By law, trout fishing in the Basque Country is done without killing. This guarantees a stable trout population and therefore a good number of catches for the fishermen.
In addition, we always take our time to rest and eat something by the river. We always include food and also good wine that we drink directly from the goatskin boot.
The fishing laws are very restrictive so it is necessary to have all the licenses and permits in order. We at San Sebastian Trips also take care of all these formalities.
If you look for us in Instagram you will find some videos and nice pictures of our clients.
We are looking forward to our next adventure on the river!

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Charming spots in Rioja

Rioja wine heritage and history

Best spots in Rioja

Outside the traditional route

This year we have had the opportunity to show our customers unique places in La Rioja. Places located outside of the most visited routes and it makes a wine tour become something much more special. From my point of view, some places in La Rioja cannot be missed. Medieval fortresses, 10th century churches and prehistoric monuments such as dolmens or burials. We must remember that this whole area is part of the Way of Saint James. All this combined with wine and local gastronomy guarantees a full experience for our clients. 

In our private tours we try to visit and taste the wines in about 4 wineries. These wineries are located between Haro and Laguardia. This area of Rioja has a very beautiful landscape. It is located at the foot of the Sierra de Cantabria and from here you can see the entire Ebro valley with the Sierra de La Demanda as a backdrop. It is an area of great winemaking tradition in which we can find some wineries dating from the fifteenth century. In the fields there are traces of the cultivation and processing of grapes dating from the tenth century. Modern wineries began to develop in the nineteenth century and the main difference is that wine begins to age in oak barrels. In other words, the wine is made in the French style. Nowadays, some wineries have built very avant-garde buildings that contrast with the architectural tradition but that will not leave you indifferent. Architects like Frank Gehry or Calatrava have left their mark. 

I hope you will be encouraged to enjoy everything that La Rioja has to offer. If you would like to do so with the help of expert guides, we would be delighted to assist you.

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Sea fishing

The seabass day

It’s one of those fishing days that sticks in your mind. It was going to be a day of tuna fishing but a friend called us and told us that in a very specific area of the coast there was a huge school of fish. We decided to cancel the tuna fishing and go to the coast in search of those bass.
We prepared some black minows and the spinning equipment. The result was instantaneous. They wouldn’t stop biting. Not only the sea bass, but also other fish such as mackerel and chicharros. The activity lasted a couple of hours. When the sun came up in the middle of the day, they stopped snacking.
We decided to stop for lunch and go back to the tuna. We tried for hours but nothing, the tuna didn’t want to bite that day. Then almost at the last minute we decided to go back to the sea bass at full speed. We were very tired but it might be worth it.
So we did, as soon as we arrived we started to pull out sea bass again, but this time bigger than in the morning. It was incredible, it was like being in a dream. One of the sea bass broke the fishing rod that was resting at the height of the handle. We were lucky to catch it on the fly. It was an unforgettable fishing experience. Here are some pictures as proof of that day.

We are waiting for you at sea!

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White wales in San Sebastian

This season we had unforgettable moments with our customers. One of them and perhaps the most exciting was when sailing only half a mile from San Sebastan we spotted white dorsal fins. I wasn’t sure what I had seen so I discussed it with my colleague Enrique. He confirmed it to me. He had also seen those imposing white fins. They were moments of confusion because they took a few minutes to emerge again.

When we saw them again they were closer to the boat and we could see that they were totally white, white as snow. I quickly thought of the Beluga whale as the shape of the head and the colour white coincided but not the dorsal fin. The beluga whale does not have a prominent dorsal fin and only inhabits the Arctic Circle.

The customers on the boat were very excited and asked if it was normal to see white whales. Obviously this is not normal. For me it was the first time I had a chance to see one.

After thinking about what kind of whale it could be, we came to the conclusion that it was the pilot gray whale. When they are adults that gray color becomes white. The description coincides perfectly with this species.

 

sailing with wales and dolphins in san sebastian

white wales in san sebastian

They were a while emerging from the water but always maintaining a distance with our boat. It was impossible to capture a good image with our mobile phones but we all have that moment engraved in our memory. I hope to find more in the future and that our customers can enjoy them.

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